If you desire to do the job right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and really see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
Second, you have to get rid of copper fouling. Here is a list of what I utilize. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods.
Get rid of the brush, pipe it down once again, and put it aside to dry. Rub out the cleaning rod with a paper towel. Take your patch rod, and put 3 solvent restore the bore. The last one need to come out nearly white. When it does, follow with a dry patch.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done.
If you don't have a borescope, run a solvent repair the bore and let it sit, muzzle slightly down, for a couple of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out clean, you're done, but if it has green or blue spots, back to the J-B.
Now, some general notes. Some barrels copper-foul much worse than others. As a guideline, the more you invest in a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. But every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do burglary procedures work? I doubt it. I've had one or two cases where a barrel all of a sudden started to group as I reached the end of the process, but I've had much more break-ins that made no difference at all.
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They work, in some cases, but if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but good, and because I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I hesitate to take the possibility. They're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.
Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend upon their guns going bang. They desire them immaculate. And spotless is a good method to go.
The steps to correctly clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field stripping or complete disassembly. Due to the range of rifles, total disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this short article.
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Utilizing a cleaning tool, such as a utility brush or cleaning swabs, and eliminate any loose particles that might be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber. Heavy fouling can be removed with a light application of cleaner and allowing it to sit for a couple of minutes prior to brushing.
One common myth is that more is much better when it comes to lubrication of your gun. You want to effectively lube where needed, however too much can cause extreme residues, which can result in malfunctions and managing problems (slippery). Lubricating fabrics are an excellent tool due to the fact that they help manage the quantity of oil/lubrication being used in any provided area of your weapon.
The treatment is easy. Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Keep in mind, keep your barrel clamped or pointed down to prevent any solvent collecting near the actionsee Action 1.) Enable it to sit, and keep in mind that getting rid of copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit again, and repeat. If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Just let it sit once again and repeat. Bill Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of discuss how these copper solvents can harm your bore.
What you don't desire is to let any ammonia solvent dry therein. Once you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry patches down the bore, followed by a couple of spots that have actually been damp with a routine cleansing solvent. Run three or four dry spots down the bore to remove any remaining solvent.